DAY FOUR (Part 2) - 02 16 2013 - Neko Harbour (64°50’S 62°33’W)

After travelling through Andvord Bay, we nestled at the bottom of the bay in Neko Harbour.  The coordinates for Neko Harbour are 64°50’S 62°33’W.

Neko Harbour is named for a whaling ship which anchored there in the early 1900's.  It is one of the rare places in the Antarctic Peninsula area where one can come ashore on the Antarctic mainland. In other words, we officially stepped on the great continent of Antarctica!

As soon as we landed, we saw a couple of small icebergs that had washed ashore and Gentoo Penguins (Pygoscelis Papua) everywhere!

Some of them decided to take a swim (see video below).  They move much better in the water.

Gentoo Penguins are known by their orange bills, long tails and white stripes across their head like little bonnets. You may recognize these penguins as the same species used in the film Mr. Popper's Penguins.

They are the 3rd largest type of penguin (the Emperor and King being the first and second largest species).  They are the fastest swimming penguins, reaching speeds up to 35km per hour! They sure love the water... (bottom left) They're natural enemies is the Orca Whale and the Leopard Seal. During our visit  we even saw a albino Gentoo Penguin... very rare (bottom right)

Hanging out in the water

Albino Gentoo Penguin

Many of the penguins were molting when we saw them (see top right picture).  A penguin's feathers are extremely important for keeping them warm and dry in this harsh climate.  Over time the feathers wear down at which time the penguins push out new feathers (called molting).  Unlike other birds, a penguin molts all his feathers at one time.  They often look like warm fuzzy pillows.

Molting is a 3-stage process.  During the 2nd stage, they are no longer water proof, so they stay on land and do not hunt for fish or krill.  They usually try to bulk up before they molt.

Molting Gentoo Penguin

Gentoo Penguins only breed in snow-free and ice-free areas.  They typically like to inhabit pebble beaches which they use to build their nests.  A Gentoo Penguin community is called a "rookery."  Gentoo Penguins tend to form long-lasting bonds with their mates.  When the mother lays her eggs (two at time), the parents take turns incubating the eggs for more than a month.  Hatchlings remains in the next for up to a month and the parents alternate in protecting the nest and foraging for food.

A little shy 

Daddy and child in the nest

Hatchling walking around... needs a bath!

The glaciers surrounding Neko Harbour are incredibly active and often create very impressive but dangerous waves when the glaciers calve, so we were told to move to higher ground immediately.  Calving is when a large block or mass of ice breaks away from a glacier.  These blocks of ice that break away are what form icebergs.  While hiking around Neko Harbour, we heard quite a few big booms which typically precede a calving event, kind of like thunder before lightning.

After spending some time in the rookery, we decided to hike up the mountain side.  We were clearly out of shape (me more than Sue).

The expedition team put up flags and cones for us to follow. The climb was full of very dangerous crevasses, so we had to be extremely careful.

Do not go past this point!

At some point this cliff will likely break off from the glacier

When we got to the top, the view was worth it!

Once we were done taking in the view, we had to get back down.  We decided that it would be faster to simply slide down the mountain. It was fast, fun and out of control! Check out these videos.

Sliding down the mountain was much faster.  Although I did get a little snow burn on the way down!

The Hero3 GOPro camera on top of my head gave a rather unique perspective of my trip down the mountain.

After we climbed the rest of the way down the mountain, we got the opportunity to see the rarest penguin of all... the Sue Penguin!

We went back to the boat and headed through the Lemaire Channel on our way to Petermann Island.